![]() ![]() Unlike the GriGri, the Vergo doesn’t tempt belayers to override the rope-grabbing component when feeding out slack. Many other devices can accommodate ropes down to 8.5 mm. This range covers most ropes on the market, but as ultra-thin ropes gain popularity, the Vergo may be left behind. This device is recommended for use with ropes between 8.9 and 10.7 mm in diameter. For most new climbers, the Vergo will have a shorter learning curve than the GriGri. The Vergo is light, compact, and great for serving up silky lead belays. While no device truly challenges the GriGri’s place at the tope, the Trango Vergo ($100) is a decent substitute for a slightly lower price. Both options are good, bu0t we prefer the newest GriGri. Many climbers find the anti-panic features to be excessive and inconvenient. Petzl also continues to sell the GriGri+ ($140), which was introduced in 2017 and features wear-resistant components and an anti-panic feature. Our pick for best overall is the 2019 version of the GriGri, which retails for $100. No matter their experience level, all climbers can learn how to use a GriGri - but they must be willing to put in the time required to master safe practices.Ĭurrently, Petzl offers two GriGri styles. Climbers must learn how to use their GriGris from a qualified instructor. While the GriGri is by far the most common belay device of today, it’s not the easiest to learn how to use. However, it has limited application for multipitch climbing due to its single-strand design. While multipitch climbing, the GriGri works well for belaying the following climber from above. Like with many assisted-braking belay devices, a climber can’t load the GriGri with two strands of rope at once, which limits its rappelling capabilities. A climber can hang on the rope for long periods, and the belayer can wait comfortably without having to actively squeeze the rope or create tension.Ĭompared to manual tube-style devices like the Black Diamond ATC-XP, the GriGri is a far more comfortable option for lengthy belays and projecting. The GriGri is especially known for its comfort during prolonged sessions of projecting single-pitch climbing routes. The device is compatible with ropes measuring 8.5-11 mm. In 2019, Petzl released the newest version, and we think it’s the best overall belay device available in 2023. There have been four versions of the GriGri to date. Following the GriGri’s lead, many other assisted-braking devices now utilize a similar design. For example, in the case of a lead fall, the rope pulls upward on the GriGri and grabs the rope, which arrests the fall. The GriGri uses an internal mechanism to pinch the climbing rope anytime the rope is pulled quickly through the device. Its effective design has only slightly changed in the years since. When it was introduced, the GriGri ($110) was one of the first assisted-braking belay devices on the market. ![]() But after 30-plus years, the GriGri continues to shine.įor gym climbing to single-pitch cragging, the GriGri can do everything you need it to. Many other manufacturers have based their belay device designs on the GriGri. Since then, this versatile device has been widely considered the world standard for belay devices. The first iteration of the Petzl GriGri debuted in 1991. Most Versatile Belay Device: Edelrid Giga Jul.Best Budget Belay Device: Black Diamond ATC-XP.Runner Up Best Belay Device: Trango Vergo.Best Overall Belay Device: Petzl GriGri.As a result of recent testing, we added one new product to our recommendations. Scroll through to see all of our recommended buys and be sure to check out our handy comparison chart, buyer’s guide, and FAQ sections.Įditor’s Note: We updated this Buyer’s Guide on September 20, 2023. ![]() In this guide, we describe various common styles of belay devices and also explain how they’re best used. We’ve sorted our recommendations into specific categories to make it easy for you to identify the belay device that best meets your needs.Īt the end of this list, we have included a comprehensive belay device buyers guide where you will find all of the information required to make an informed purchase. On this list, we have compiled our recommendations for the best belay devices of 2023. There are lots of great options on the market, and deciding which one to buy can be confusing. When entering the sport, a belay device is one of the first pieces of gear that new climbers should purchase. Climbers use belay devices to manage slack in the rope, catch their partner in case of a fall, and lower them safely to the ground.
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